The Raw Boots

Built for the long run

Goodyear welt construction is the kitchen sink of shoe builds. When boots call for serious longevity, nothing else will do. Hardwearing, water-resistant, and can be endlessly resoled - there’s good reason why they’ve been on soldiers’ feet for the last hundred years.

Ours are made by hand in Portugal by the PENHA workshop. The sole is stitched to the upper, not glued, so when it eventually wears out years down the line, your local cobbler can easily change them. If you look after the shoes themselves, you can keep resoling them indefinitely.

The three leathers come from Europe (Spain, Portugal, England) and were picked for their ability to age well. The smooth leather develops a beautiful patina, the suede stays noble, and waxed leather breezes through any downpour. Play your cards right, and in a few decades these boots could still be on your feet. Or on your kids’.

Finally, a pair of boots that don’t hold a grudge

In previous versions — and leather boots in general — there’s always been room to improve comfort levels, and we’re not going to pretend otherwise. In previous versions, 51% of returns mentioned discomfort, stiffness, and a break-in period that dragged on. So we completely rebuilt them:

• The last first: we now use the same last as our Eternal Boots. It’s roomier across the top of the foot, and a lot more forgiving from day one.
• Up step the insoles: EVA foam, topped with a layer of leather. Comfort and quality. They smell good, too.
• The finishing touches: we removed the dense padding at the top of the shaft that squeezed your Achilles.

They now feel like your favourite trainers from day one, and age like a proper pair of boots with all the character that comes with it. The best of both worlds, with no compromises.

Three leathers, three personalities

Smooth leather. This no-nonsense option from D. Molina in Spain is tough, with a light chrome tan. It’s designed to develop maximum patina: the scuffs, the creases - every time you pull them on they have more of a story to tell. If you like seeing time do its thing, these are for you.

Suede from our friends at Boaventura in Portugal is the softest one in the line-up. Velvety, supple from day one, and at home pretty much everywhere. It’s for those who want comfort straight away — without giving up style.

Waxed leather from Charles F. Stead in England doesn’t flinch. Vegetable-tanned, naturally water-repellent, it handles bad weather without a second thought. It’s for anyone after a proper all-terrain pair of boots. But fear not, whichever one you choose will age beautifully. At the end of the day, it comes down to taste.