The need for tweed

November 17, 2023

Our take on a made-to-be-worn icon

Tweed jackets have a proud, outdoorsy history (cue shillelagh-wielding bloke emerging from mist and gorse with a Red Setter at his side), but there’s far more to these hardy jackets than that. Like most true classics the tweed jacket’s adaptable. It’s just as at home paired with a cotton Oxford getting a round in as it is cable knit stomping across windswept moors. The tweed jacket’s no one-wear-a-year-wonder, it’s ready for anything.

Whether it’s Alan Bennett having a cuppa with the paper, Ernest Hemingway sampling the cocktail menu, or ‘Dirty Harry’ Callahan ruffling feathers in San Francisco’s underworld, the tweed jacket’s the sidekick of choice.

Tough, yet comfortable. Warm, yet breathable. Tidy, but rugged. You can see why we couldn’t resist having a pop at one.

Over the moon

You told us you wanted a high-quality fabric that wouldn’t pill. Our hunt for the finest tweed around took us to Yorkshire, where we met with the chaps at Abraham Moon & Sons, one of Britain’s oldest mills. This lot have been producing world-beating woollen fabrics since 1837. On top of that, they’re just as committed to making quality clothes in sustainable ways as we are. A match made in tweed heaven.

Given the endless possibilities, making a call was tough. But eventually we opted for some 375g/m2 tweed, woven from 100% pure new wool. It’s heavy enough to keep you warm when a wintery wind hits, but it won’t leave you sweating the rest of the year. It’s the ideal mid-season weight, and it’s got a soft, smooth finish that’s a long way from those scratchy teacher tweeds of old.

Oh, and getting back to that pilling request: this stuff scored a punchy 4.5 out of 5 in the all-important Martindale rub test.

Tweed 2.0

The tweed jacket sits in the sweet spot between smart and casual: adding a bit of style and swagger to the outdoors, or injecting a bit of rugged earthiness to more formal settings. Talk about a win-win. For ours, we went with a sharp, tailored fit that’s anything but old-fashioned. Think of it as tweed 2.0.

We designed the Tweed Jacket with laid-back Neapolitan shoulders to keep things relaxed, and opted for a half-canvas interlining, which helps the jacket hang more naturally, feel more comfy and age better. There’s a vent on the back so you can tie your bootlaces without embarrassing yourself.

We put two flap pockets on the outside and kept the classic breast pocket, should you have a fancy hanky you want to show off... Those flaps can be tucked in, in case you’re going for a cleaner look. As for the inside, there are two secure pockets ready to stow your valuables, conkers, fountain pens — whatever. As for the lapel, we opted for the notched variety, with a width of 8.5cm—not too slim, and not too wide.

Only the best

Once we’d found the right tweed, we weren’t going to let just anyone get to work on it. We sent it over to the fine folk at Crialme in Portugal, who have been making beautiful jackets for almost 40 years. World-renowned tweed, meets world-renowned suit-smiths.

All's wool that ends wool

Tweed is famed for its characterful, textured look. We probably don’t need to tell you that, but with all that depth in play, we decided to keep things classic with the colours. Three tasteful tones that’ll hold their own for decades to come.

For starters, we’ve shaken things up with a new herringbone pattern. Some extra texture for those hard-edged Raymond Chandler fans out there.

Then there’s navy — naturally. A little more dry vermouth on ice, a little less gamekeeper.

And finally, a new green marl. Look the part in a dented Defender, or the business out on the town. Your call.

Sound good?

The Tweed Jacket will be available to preorder for 239€ from the 21st of November. If you want first dibs, you can hit this link here and we’ll be sure to notify you when you can grab one.

And if it doesn't work out when your Tweed Jacket arrives, returns and exchanges are easy. The return costs are on us.

Need to know anything else? Ask away via the comments below, or alternatively, you can check our international Instagram page for more info.

The Asphalte Team

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