You want classic? Start here
July 08, 2022
As far as the denim family goes, straight-cut jeans are the heads of the clan, the wise elders who live by the ‘if it ain’t broke’ life rule, the battle-hardened chieftains... Straight-legged jeans are classics, essentials in any wardrobe and key for those looking for a little extra comfort in the denim department.
Sadly, from what you told us, it seems like a lot of the should-be classics out there aren’t up to scratch.
Here’s what got you down with the other straight-cuts out there:
- The sub-par denim wears thin in a few months, leaving your knees to fend for themselves and those awkward holes in the upper inside leg.
- Average cuts that felt neither here nor there, as if there wasn’t a sweet spot between workwear and leggings.
- A chronic case of discomfort from poor shape and the boxy feel of materials.
- Weak belt loops and pocket bags that spill your change
PASSION FOR DENIM
To make a true classic, you need to get the basics right. When it comes to jeans, top-notch denim is the most crucial basic there is. Ours comes from Japan.
Japanese mills have maintained and honoured jeans’ American heritage for more than half a century, ever since they smartly bought up the vintage shuttle looms used to create the American golden age of denim.
The Shinya mill, who we worked with on these, has been using shuttle looms since 1951. Unlike soulless mass-production mill tools, shuttle looms work to a slow-jam tempo, making denim rolls that are half as wide as the average with a much more rugged, unique feel. The sad realities of mass-market cost-efficiency put an end to the use of shuttle looms in the making of Average Joe slacks…
Of course, one man’s inefficiencies and imperfections are another’s route to creating uniquely characterful, hardy denim. Like all selvedge (short for ‘self edge’) jeans, these sport that tell-tale red band in the seam-turn up - a sought-after credential among true blue denim hunters. And, like all denim made on shuttle looms, ours has that irregular weave, rustic feel, and extra durability.
As you’ve no doubt gathered, we’re big fans of Japanese denim, and the good folks at Shinya made us a denim for denim-lovers, something we’re sure you’ll appreciate.
A STRAIGHT-UP CUT
Straight-leg doesn’t mean simple when it comes to the cut. We had to call on all the skills we honed in making the Ultimate Jeans to fine-tune these.
Compared to the Ultimate Jeans the thigh area is a tad roomier and the leg’s finish with a straight cut below the knee (clue’s in the name there), without any tapering.
That means top-level comfort around the inside leg and the thighs combined with a subtly tailored cut at the hem. Comfort meets classic, all the way from waist to ankle.
WE SAID COMFY, AND WE MEANT IT
Love for selvedge denim can be a double-edged sword: some selvedge is so rugged it can be a pain to wear. So for the Raw version, we opted to add 5% polyurethane to the mix, giving just enough out-of-the-box flex to avoid the feeling you slipped on a pair of chain-mail pants.
That extra touch wouldn’t have made sense if we’d used the average denim others do, but ours weighs in at 14oz compared to the run-of-the-mill 11 to 13oz. You get all the character and durability of heavyweight selvedge, none of the chaffed inner-thigh. Good deal, right?
One more thing on the comfort front: your jeans will adapt to your leg shape and gait over time. Give it a few weeks, and avoid washing them, and soon these will feel tailor-made.
STURDY CREDENTIALS FOR PATINA PERFECTION
One bonus of having a pair (or two) of seriously sturdy go-to jeans is to see how they evolve over time.
A 14oz selvedge Japanese denim, like this, is a recipe for a wonderful patina. Your jeans will become unique as you wear them, bearing the marks and imprints of your daily life. The wear, wrinkles and whorls will be stamped into the weave.
You can tell these jeans are great from a mile away. But you can also tell they’re yours, because the way you sit, walk and what you jam in the pockets is written all over them.
To ensure you get time for a patina to develop - we made the five pockets extra tough, with 100% cotton lining. We also saw to those details others skip over - silver zamak buttons, reinforced stitching and bar tacks fitted as standard… These won’t be giving out on you any time soon.
As we mentioned above, these come in a Raw denim finish, with that handy 5% polyurethane to keep your thighs happy. If you wanted something a little different there are five other options on the table - all of them 100% washed, and 100% cotton: Rinse, Stone, Black, Stone Black, Off-white. Good luck making a call.
Giving it to you straight
So there you have it: straight legs, seriously hardy selvedge, and comfort built in. The Ultimate Straight Cut Jeans will be available to preorder from next Tuesday for 99€.
If it doesn't work out fear not, returns and exchanges are easy and the cost of the return is on us.
Need to know anything else? Drop it in the comments below or check our international Instagram page for the answer. Possibly.
The Asphalte Team